The Japanese 'Camping' Phenomenon

Not long ago, we accepted an invitation to go 'camping' with our friend Rieko in Tanzawa, a retreat on the other side of Mount Fuji. We thought we were going on a casual, tent-based camping trip in the wilderness, maybe fire up some billy-tea with our damper. We were wrong. Very wrong.

When we arrived at the 'camp' site ('Well Camp'), we discovered that the tents of Australian camping folklore, had been transformed into (very well-equipped) cabins, and the group would be split into 3 - men in one cabin, women in another cabin, children in the third. The group (Japanese love groups) consisted of 22 people, including 9 children, all of them burdened with the Japanese camping notion of being 'excessively prepared'.

Within minutes of arrival, the preparation began. All 13 adults (excluding us because we were ready just to light a camp-fire by the river and be done with it) began a well-oiled production-line; tarps went up; gas stoves were lit; tables were laden with food; wood was chain-sawed into oblivion (oh - the serenity!) and makeshift lamps were dotted about the site. All for one night of frivolity. We hadn't seen this kind of display since Willy Wonka's oompa loompas.

Now, one of the finest traditions of the Australian camping experience is forgetting something, be it a bottle opener, tin opener, the tent, but these guys had it down to a fine art. Matt and I just stood there, mouths agape, wondering where the hell we had landed. Not that we were complaining. By 4pm, the sun had gone down, the beer and wine appeared, the kim-chee nabe (like a spicy hot pot) was bubbling and by 6pm we were all soused.

The highlight of the evening was undoubtedly gate-crashing the kids party for a pillow fight and chasey (hey, we never pretended to be adults). Things started to get out of hand, however, when they wrapped Matt up like Mother Theresa and paraded him throughout the campsite.

The following morning, after a slap-up breakfast (including percolated coffee - what the?), we stopped in at the Nishi Tanzawa onsen, a steal at 700yen for two hours. Like most onsen, it was divided into two - one for the girls, one for the boys (recurring theme here?). There was a bath inside with blissfully warm water (I find most onsen too hot to soak for long) and an outdoor bath which was almost unbearably hot, but was framed by hundreds of maple trees overlooking the river. I opted for the 'hanshin' soak (bottom half of body in the water, top half out of it) which, although supposedly very healthy (yeah, like natto...) had the unfortunate effect of transforming me into a red and white candy cane.

One aspect of Japanese culture I do love, is their penchant for getting their gear off in front of strangers. The Japanese are not remotely self-conscious about their bits hanging out for everyone to see (as long as they are of the same gender). Very liberating.